The Art of the Eastern Carolina Pig Picking

There are several varieties of barbecue in the United States. Texas style. Memphis style. South Carolina and Georgia with their mustard-based sauces. And then there's North Carolina, with its myriad of styles—Eastern, Lexington, Western—each with its own devoted following.

This is a story about Eastern North Carolina barbecue, the kind built on vinegar-based sauce, because that's where we're from. Homemade pork barbecue cooked over charcoal and wood remains one of the best ways to prepare the meat. Whether you're tackling a whole hog or a simple pork shoulder, there are methods that allow you to cook at home with results that won't disappoint.

The Tradition of the Pig Picking

Pig pickings are one way to enjoy that down-home, slow-cooked pork over fire—and they're about more than just the food. These gatherings bring out the whole community. They mark the end of tobacco season, celebrate births and weddings, fuel tailgates at college football games, or happen simply just because.

I remember being allowed to get up before dawn to hang out with Grandaddy and his buddies when the pig was placed on the cooker. Once it was cooking, breakfast was served: fresh pork tenderloin, eggs straight from under the hen, bacon, sausage, biscuits, and toast. The beverages ran the spectrum from orange juice and soft drinks to brown liquor.

The running joke was that the cooks were usually done before the pig was. It was an adventure for a little boy to hang out with the older guys and be accepted into the fold.

The pig would cook slowly all day, pork-flavored smoke wafting in the breeze, whetting everyone's appetite throughout the early afternoon. As guests began trickling in, they'd socialize while snacking on hors d'oeuvres and mixing drinks until the meal was served.

At some pig pickings, the pork is chopped first and then served to guests. But my preferred way? Get in line, pick pork right off the pig, and fill your plate with pulled barbecue and all the sides.

A Dying Art: Charcoal, Wood, and Propane

Sadly, cooking pigs over charcoal and wood is a dying skill. With the introduction of propane gas-fueled pig cookers, it became easier to cook whole hog barbecue—but the process isn't as nuanced as cooking over traditional charcoal. Propane doesn't require the same attention to detail. The flavor isn't quite as good from a gas cooker, though a smoke box holding wood chips can be placed directly on a burner to help deliver that smoky aroma and taste.

Here’s how it’s done: The pig is placed skin side up on the cooker and seasoned with salt and pepper. Some cooks rub the skin with cooking oil or margarine to help it turn golden brown during the slow cooking process.

The heat is set at 300 degrees Fahrenheit for the first hour, then lowered to 250 degrees for the rest of the cook. After a few hours, the pig is flipped so the skin is now facing down toward the fire. The cook then douses the body cavity with barbecue sauce to keep it moist and flavorful. Another few hours are required to finish.

The only thing left to decide: Will the pork be chopped before serving, or will guests serve themselves with pulled pork?