One Local’s Ultimate Guide to Greenville, South Carolina
- Lillia Callum-Penso
- Jan 27
- 11 min read
Updated: 5 days ago
SUSTAINABLE growth takes continuous effort, and is the very reason this Upstate gem is thriving
I’ll admit I was taken by Greenville’s twinkling lights. The first time I set foot in the city nestled in South Carolina’s Upstate, I felt an immediate charm walking downtown beneath trees strung with white lights. Still, back in 2004, I never imagined I would stay. Greenville was growing, yes—but it felt too small for the Atlanta native in me. And if I wanted to make it in journalism, I was certain that meant living in a big city.
Twenty-two years later, I’m still here.
I’m far from alone in that decision. Greenville’s population has grown more than 4.6 percent since 2020, drawing newcomers from New Jersey, Ohio, New York, California, and Texas. The city has landed on lists from The New York Times, Travel + Leisure, and U.S. News & World Report. What those accolades don’t capture, however, is the insider’s view—the nuance of what it took to get here, and what it means to live through a period of rapid growth.
I’ve watched Greenville’s evolution with both pride and curiosity. It is a great city, but it is also one that has worked deliberately to become one. Collaboration between public and private entities has fueled much of that progress. Projects like the Peace Center, Unity Park, and The Commons food hall didn’t materialize overnight; they required sustained conversation, cooperation, and at times disagreement over values and who would ultimately benefit.
Like many cities, Greenville has faced challenges—gentrification, affordable housing shortages, and aging infrastructure among them. Measured, inclusive growth takes constant effort. That persistence may be one of Greenville’s greatest strengths.
When the once-dominant textile industry declined in the late seventies and eighties, city leaders pivoted, setting their sights on international investment and the automotive sector. Today, companies like Michelin North America, GE, and BMW Manufacturing anchor the regional economy, supporting hundreds of thousands of jobs and a broad network of businesses.
But a strong economy alone doesn’t make a city special. There is a genuine pride here—among leaders and residents alike. Downtown’s two-mile stretch of Main Street is home to more than 200 restaurants, nearly all locally owned. National retailers sit alongside independent boutiques like Augusta Twenty and We Took to the Woods. Longstanding running shops such as Run In and Fleet Feet serve both seasoned athletes and newcomers, supported by a community that shows up.
Those communities form around shared spaces, and that may be the beauty of a small city.
Greenville is big enough to find your people, yet small enough to run into someone you know at the grocery store on a random Wednesday afternoon. In an increasingly spread-out world, that intimacy matters.
“Greenville falls in the middle, smaller city that serves as the center of a million-metro area,” says Mayor Knox White, who has led the city for 25 years. “That gives us the opportunity to support a performing arts center, an entertainment arena, and a hospitality and restaurant scene…in a vibrant, livable community.”
I’ve seen that balance most clearly in Greenville’s culinary evolution. Over the past decade, chefs from Charleston, Miami, New York, Chicago, and beyond have put down roots here—drawn by affordability, natural beauty, and a better quality of life for their families. With broader recognition from the MICHELIN Guide across the South, talented culinarians no longer have to choose between career and community.
Greenville continues to grow. Others may just be discovering it—but this is why I’m still here.
Where to shop
This place serves as an oasis in the heart of downtown. A place for booklovers, but especially food lovers. Why? The cookbook section is prolific, but the café inside – Camilla Kitchen is also doing wonderful things. While the independent bookstore with a strong sense of place does many things, from book signings, dinners and book talks, I like to pop in on an afternoon to peruse when I can snag a glass of wine and take advantage of the Golden Hour menu of small bites and snacks that are all less than $10. It’s the perfect anecdote to a frenetic day.
Horizon Records, led by Gene Berger and a team of loyal music lovers has been providing access to interesting music in the form of a tiny record store for 50 years. Any visit is bound to introduce you to something new, or perhaps even something old – they specialize in used records and CDs as well.
For a real listening experience, check out the newly opened The Annex (also owned by Berger) which sits just next door. Part listening room and part interactive museum, this is where to some rare gems.
Greenville has a robust arts scene and the city’s creative culture is evident in the many art galleries that populate downtown and The Village of West Greenville. Start at Art Crossing on Riverwalk downtown where you’ll find art from a collective of artists. Then, make your way to The Village of West Greenville, an historic neighborhood that is now a hot spot, but that was reenergized by artists in the early 2000s.
You could easily miss this charming retail shop that sits just north of Downtown. The name says it all because stepping inside We Took to the Woods feels like stepping inside the middle of a cozy fairytale. While the store specializes in handmade candles, you'll also find curated home goods, clothing, and delightful knick knacks. Every item is integrated in a way that feels more like a home than a store. The owners change the décor twice a year for the season, a process that takes three months to complete because of all the details involved.
Where to gather
This new space is part incubator, part innovator. Each month, visitors discover a rotating lineup of food businesses, each bringing something distinct to the table. Recent offerings have included a multi-roaster coffee shop, California-style breakfast burritos, a Caribbean-inspired concept, and a Filipino Ihawan serving skewers cooked over open flame. HONE bridges the gap between dream and reality, giving culinarians real-world space to test ideas, supported by a network of experienced consultants. But the real draw is the food—innovative, refreshing, and memorable. Curious about Greenville’s food future? Start here.
You can’t go wrong dining at Scoundrel. The restaurant didn’t earn Greenville’s first ever MICHELIN star for no reason, after all. The team is consistent, the food is precise and delicious, and the atmosphere is elegant and lovely without feeling stuffy.
But if you are looking for a quick bite or perhaps, or maybe you don’t have a reservation, I’d sidle up during Happy Hour. From 5 p.m. to 7 p.m. Tuesday through Friday you can dine on items like the famous Scoundrel Caesar salad, the burger and duck fat fries, escargot and beef tartare for a heck of a deal.
Located on Main Street in the heart of Travelers Rest, the small town just to the north of Greenville, Topsoil is a true gem. The restaurant is producing some of the most creative locally-sourced fare in the state (Topsoil also operates a small farm just up the road). Executive chef and co-owner Adam Cooke has a reputation for working magic with unexpected ingredients. The menu changes based on what’s in season and what’s available locally. Go on Sunday nights when you can enjoy a five-course chef’s tasting experience for $105.
Owned by chef Shawn Kelly and Roddy Pick, who operates Kingbird Pastures, a regenerative farm, the menu changes twice a day and centers on local and regional fare. It’s the spot I recommend the most just for its creativity and its range. Here you can get a solid burger and great beef carpaccio, a seasonal vegetable plate, delicious seafood dishes and homemade pasta. Tip: Don’t skip the Nashville hot grouper if it’s on the menu.
This is the newest wine bar to emerge on the local scene, and it brings a distinctive element: owner Liz Dowty Mitchell. She came up through the ranks of New Orleans and is an advanced sommelier and a certified wine educator. This means Camino is a place to enjoy and to learn about wine, but it’s also a place to chill. A nice glass of Albillo and some goat cheese stuffed dates and I’m set. Camino just added a café as well, which brings an equally thoughtful approach to coffee and tea—perfect anytime of day.
Even after 11 years, you’ll likely see the owners, Jac Oliver and Mary Walsh, still working in this delightful place. The two friends created Swamp Rabbit out of a shared vision for supporting local farmers; not only have they done that, but they make a really great sandwich too. The stecca bread has a cult following, but I’m partial to the buttery scones: filled with seasonal ingredients and not too sweet. It’s generally busy on weekends, but the perfect spot after a stroll or bike ride along the Prisma Health Swamp Rabbit Trail.
When John Lewis took over the storied Tommy’s Country Ham House space on Poinsett Highway, it was big news—not just because the famed pitmaster was bringing his craveable brisket to Greenville, but because he was stepping into one of the city’s most iconic restaurant locations. Lewis Barbecue has honored that legacy well, earning a loyal following for a reason: it’s consistently excellent. While more refined than a classic barbecue joint, complete with a full bar and cocktails, the flavor and quality remain unmatched. Even better, the vegetarian sides make it welcoming for everyone at the table.
A hidden gem experience in Greenville. Project Host soup kitchen has served Greenville since 1981 and now operates a community garden, a bakery, a meals for kids program and a culinary training program, C.C. Pearce Culinary School which works with unemployed and underemployed individuals. Once a month, Project Host opens to the public for a special dinner that is prepared by C.C. Pearce students. Past dinners have included homemade pasta, scratch-made bread, North Carolina trout, garden vegetable salads and decadent chocolate desserts. Each dinner includes three courses and costs just around $40.
Where to stay
The perfect place for a vacation, or a staycation, Hotel Hartness offers the warmth of home with the elegance of a high-end boutique hotel. And well, that’s partly because the 69-suite Hartness used to be a residence; the 180-acre property that surrounds it was once the home of the Hartness family. The family reimagined their home and land in the early 2000s. Now, the Hartness community, with its mix of residential and locally-owned cafés and restaurants, offers a unique respite on Greenville’s east side.
The hotel is designed with comfortable luxury in mind, with in-room soaking tubs and fireplaces and ample places to relax. The surrounding property is nestled in woods making you feel like you’re far away, even though you’re barely a 17-minute drive from downtown Greenville.
Don’t miss Patterson Kitchen + Bar, the restaurant that sits adjacent. It’s hard to go wrong with anything on the southern-tinged, seasonally-inspired menu.
For a smaller bite, snack or a cocktail, sidle up to The Captain, the delightfully intimate bar tucked inside a cozy corner of the hotel. Try the whiskey flight and the baked to order chocolate chip cookies for a delightful treat.
Truthfully, I have never stayed at The Grand Bohemian Lodge, but because the hotel features events, great dining and a beautifully welcoming lobby, I can feel like I get a taste of the luxury. The art gallery contains some incredible works, always changing so it’s definitely worth perusing.
Additionally, dining here is delightful, not just for the food but for the view. There is literally no bad seat or dish in the Between the Trees dining room. The smoked ricotta dip with fried saltines is addictive and for something different try the elk carpaccio with beef fat aioli and pretzel croutons. If bourbon is your thing, Spirit & Bower is where you should be. The cozy bar on the bottom level of the hotel features what might be the best bourbon collection in Greenville, including exclusive private reserve barrels. Spirit and Bower’s Happy Hour, or what they call “Bower Hour” is new this year, offering deals on dips and a special food menu 4p.m. to 7 p.m. Monday through Friday.
Where to Play
This is one of my favorite places when I want to get the kids out of the house but don’t want to drive too far. The new playground is great; the trails are lovely and surrounded by beautiful marsh and forest. Most are also paved, making this a great spot for a quick hike, walk, or stroll.
This is one of the places I fell in love with when I moved to Greenville. Paris Mountain is not quite as intense as Table Rock or Caesar’s Head, which are just up the road, but it offers enough of a challenge to make you feel like you earned brunch. The trails here range in difficulty and many are family friendly. And while it sits just over six miles outside of downtown Greenville it feels like a real escape.
This is another one of my top favorite spots. A waterfall, river and park in the heart of downtown? Amazing! Get a great view from the award-winning Liberty Bridge, or for a different experience, stroll the Riverwalk alongside the Reedy River. The park is often host to special festivals and events throughout the year and is a great starting or ending point for a walk, jog or bike along the Prisma Health Swamp Rabbit Trail.
Also worth Exploring
This neighborhood just West of downtown is worth a stop. Aside from HONE, you’ll also find a variety of unique galleries, eateries and shops. Try El Ca-Fe Empanads & Pastries, where you can’t leave without a beef empanada and a guava and cream cheese pastry; or Bar Margaret, which has one of the best burgers (and veggie burgers) in the city. The Rabbit Hole boasts insanely creative décor that almost rivals its cocktails. Don't miss another MICHELIN recommended The Anchorage—for a small place it offers plenty of choices.
Don’t leave the area without stopping by Rise Bakery for a croissant, (butter is my favorite) or LaRue Fine Chocolate for hand-crafted chocolate truffles (the Sheherazade is my go to). Another not to miss place is Six & Twenty Distillery for a sip of locally-produced spirits. The Carolina Cream is beyond decadent.
This is a spot delightfully stuck in time. Any local will tell you it's one of the best, most affordable lunches in Greenville. The falafel and the hummus have their own following. Take a spin around the grocery area and don’t leave without a bottle of the addictive hot sauce or a bag of fresh pita bread. Local tip: Bring cash or check as Pita House does not accept cards.
Great for a full meal, but also a perfect spot before dinner. Go for happy hour when you can get tiny bubbles or a tiny cocktail, char sui bao and crab Rangoon each costing just $5. Happy Hour is available at the bar from 5 p.m. – 7 p.m. everyday.
A tried and true downtown spot for over a decade. Go for the Belgian inspired mussels and fries, stay for the cozy vibe. Nestled below ground it feels like a secret in the middle of downtown. Don’t leave without trying one of the over 100 Belgian beers on the menu.
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About the author
Lillia Callum-Penso has spent the past 20 years working in daily newspapers, including 18 years at The Greenville News in Greenville, South Carolina, and 2½ years at The Post and Courier in Greenville. Her background is rooted in feature writing, with a focus on trends, people-centered stories, and slice-of-life pieces, alongside business coverage centered on entrepreneurs. Over the past decade, she has primarily covered food and restaurants, including spirits, craft beer, wine, and related policy and trends. She is passionate about telling stories of the people behind food and beverage—and how food connects, comforts, and reveals shared human experiences.