Discovering Wind River Country

Life's journey is often marked not by the destinations we reach or the possessions we accumulate, but by the connections we forge along the way. Every place holds stories waiting to be uncovered, and the people we meet add depth and meaning to our travels.

It was sunny and seasonably warm when we set out like two fearless pioneers—an aunt and her niece—on an exploration through Wyoming's Wind River Country, driving from Yellowstone National Park to Dubois and Lander. What we found was a landscape that perfectly embodies "America the Beautiful": vast, rugged, and awe-inspiring, yet filled with welcoming small towns, rich culture, and unexpected opportunities beyond the well-traveled national park routes.

This wasn't simply a road trip to photograph scenic places. It became something far more personal—a journal of the region told through the people who call it home. Experiencing the Eastern Shoshone Indian Days Powwow, wandering Dubois' historic streets, and sharing conversations with shopkeepers, artists, and fellow travelers reminded us that while breathtaking landscapes may draw us to a place, it is the people who give it its soul.

As the sun dipped behind the Wind River Mountains, Dubois greeted us with glowing skies of pink and orange. More than a gateway to Yellowstone, this historic ranching town feels wonderfully untouched by time.

That sense of hospitality begins at the Black Bear Inn, where Liz and Dave Furman continue the family legacy built by Dave's parents over two decades. Complete with a teddy bear gift shop and shelves of classic DVDs, the inn reflects the warmth of its owners, whose dedication to the community extends beyond hospitality. Across the street, their son Micah co-owns Wind River Flyfitter, continuing another family tradition rooted in Wyoming's outdoor heritage.

Walking Dubois feels like stepping into another era. We lingered beneath the famous Antler Arch, browsed Welty's General Store—serving the community since 1889—and delighted in meeting fourth-generation owner Frank Welty, who, at 83, still welcomes customers with stories earned over a lifetime.

Just down the street, sculptor Monty Baker invited us into Tukadeka Traders, where intricate bone and antler carvings share space with an antique piano. Before we left, Monty entertained us with ragtime tunes, turning a simple shopping stop into one of the trip's most memorable moments.

Breakfast at the Cowboy Cafe proved equally unforgettable. Known for homemade pies as much as hearty breakfasts, we happily finished our meal with cherry raspberry pie à la mode—a delicious reminder that road trips are meant to include a few indulgences.

On our way to Lander, we paused at the National Museum of Military Vehicles. Walking among restored tanks, jeeps, and transport vehicles offered a moving reminder of the sacrifices made by generations of American servicemen and women.

Lander provides its own blend of history and outdoor adventure. At the Wind River Wild Horse Sanctuary, rescued mustangs roam freely across the Oldham family's working cattle ranch, while nearby Sinks Canyon State Park showcases one of Wyoming's most fascinating natural wonders as the Popo Agie River mysteriously disappears beneath the limestone before reemerging downstream.

We settled into the retro-inspired Lander Motel before the experience that would define our journey.

The Eastern Shoshone Indian Days Powwow in Fort Washakie was far more than an event—it was an invitation into a living culture. We spent hours speaking with dancers, artisans, families, and elders, each conversation offering a deeper appreciation for the traditions that continue to thrive here.

Meeting competitive dancer Brave Bear Standing and his grandson, Little Elk, was especially meaningful, as was our conversation with renowned Fancy Dancer and educator George Abeyta. Their generosity in sharing stories transformed us from spectators into welcomed guests.

Just before the Grand Entry began, powerful winds swept across the reservation, stirring horses and riders as dark clouds rolled across the valley. Standing there, we couldn't help but feel the landscape itself was speaking—a reminder that this place carries a spirit every bit as powerful as its scenery.

The hospitality continued in Lander's restaurants and cafés. At Mulino Bistro, Joe and Angie Hammer serve handmade pasta inspired by local ingredients, while Whitebark Cafe became our favorite morning stop for artisan coffee, flaky chocolate croissants, and one unforgettable tomato pesto pastry.

As we made our way home, one realization stayed with us. Wind River Country isn't defined by any single attraction, mountain, or historic site. It is defined by its people—the innkeepers preserving family legacies, the artists sharing their craft, the Native families honoring centuries-old traditions, and the neighbors eager to welcome strangers.

The landscapes may first capture your attention, but it is the people who remain with you long after you've driven away. In Wind River Country, that's the story worth taking home.

Wind River Country Itinerary

Day 1: Arrive in Dubois

• Check into the Black Bear Inn
• Stroll historic Main Street
• Browse Welty's General Store (est. 1889)
• Visit Tukadeka Traders and meet sculptor Monty Baker
• Dinner at the Cowboy Cafe—don't skip the pie

Day 2: Dubois to Lander

• Tour the National Museum of Military Vehicles
• Visit the Wind River Wild Horse Sanctuary
• Explore Sinks Canyon State Park
• Check into the retro-inspired Lander Motel
• Dinner at Mulino Bistro

Day 3: Fort Washakie

• Experience the Eastern Shoshone Indian Days Powwow
• Meet Native artists, dancers, and vendors
• Attend the Grand Entry and cultural performances

Before You Head Home

• Coffee and pastries at Whitebark Cafe
• Take time to explore downtown Lander
• Enjoy one last drive through the Wind River Mountains